FortalezaSunday, early afternoon eating a freshly made tuna salad lunch with a chilled glass of dry white wine. Its 30 degrees, and the azure-blue Atlantic Ocean is calm, with only a couple of sailing boats drifting along. Suddenly the sound of Jazz-Blues music can be heard. We wonder where from, and then realise it must be from the Fortaleza restaurant on the rocks at Praia da Luz, half a mile away. The Fortaleza is an historic site, from Roman times, rebuilt in 1670, after an earthquake. Richard the Lionheart is reputed to have stopped off there on his way to the crusades.

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